Surfing teaches me every time. It teaches me to catch the moment and get to action. To let go, stop worrying about the little details, sink into the present moment and enjoy life. It’s a deeply meditative experience.
Once I’d shook myself off the initial thoughts of “is Rowan going to stay under the sun shade, hope he won’t eat too much sand and I better hurry up in case he needs me” and got to head into water - the sea immediately finds a way of putting me right back to where I needed…Read More